Wroclaw Has it All

Wroclaw is the fourth biggest city in Poland. It is situated to the west of country and only a short flight away from the UK. It is worth knowing that it was a German city before the 2nd World War known then as Breslau.

The focal point of Wroclaw is the old town and a big market square lined with the colourful town houses. There are quite a few churches, buildings and quaint streets to explore around this area. The building worth stopping by is the Hansel and Gretel house which dates back to 15th century. It is two buildings joined together by an archway and they look like a couple holding hands.

Step Inside the University of Wroclaw

One of the must see landmarks in Wroclaw is the university building just next to the river Oder. The university dates back to 1701 and it was then known as the University of Breslau. A beautiful blue entrance door with intricate gold patterns foreshadows the absolute gem to be seen inside. The Aula Leopoldina is a magnificent, opulent, gold gilded baroque meeting room and is the one landmark that everybody wants to see. It simply takes your breath away. It is still used nowadays for important uni celebrations.

The Mathematical Tower in the same building offers some nice views of the city and it is just one of many towers we climbed in Wroclaw.

The Magic of the Cathedral Island

Just north from the old town, the river Oder split into two creating a few islands. These islands are connected with the rest of the city by a number of bridges in different colours and styles. One of these bridges connects the city with the Cathedral Island, the location of the city’s cathedral. The cathedral was built in the 12th century in a Gothic style and was completely destroyed at the end of the second world war.

This is an ideal place for a stroll where at dusk the streets get illuminated by the gas street lamps which date back to the 19th century. Interestingly, Wroclaw is the one of the two cities in Europe which still employs a gas lamplighter. Everyday, just before the dusk, the lamplighter dressed in a black cape and a top hat manually lights 103 gas lamps on the Cathedral Island. It is a popular spectacle which attracts a crowd of tourists.

The Bridge of Penitents and Wroclaw from Above

Apart from its many bridges on the river, Wroclaw also has an aerial bridge – the famous Bridge of Penitents which joins two towers of St Mary Magdalene’s Church. It can be reached by climbing 247 winding stairs and it provides a fantastic vantage point of the whole city.

The legend has it that this is where a young woman was paying her penitence after being cursed by her father. She had to sweep the floor of the bridge every day until a witch took pity on her and freed her from the curse. This legend is immortalised by a sculpture situated on the bridge railing. 

If you want to climb even higher, the tower of St Elizabeth’s Church is the highest viewpoint in the centre of Wroclaw. It stands 91 metres tall and requires climbing 300 stair to reach the top. The staircase leading to the top is very narrow creating a challenge in itself but the views from the top  are spectacular so definitely worth the climb. 

Spot the Dwarves!

While walking round Wroclaw, you can’t miss the little sculptures of dwarves popping up on every corner and in the most unusual places. They are often depicted in a variety of activities, such as working, eating, playing an instrument, fooling around or reflecting the historical story of the place (like the witch story above). The idea of the dwarves originated from the movement in the 1980s which used  dwarves as a form of humour to protest against the communist regime.

Nowadays, they are a major tourist attraction. You can even join a “dwarf hunt” and try to find as many dwarves as possible. There are over 1000 of them scattered around the city so you will definitely bump into a few along the way.

Food and the 1980s Nostalgia

You will not go hungry or thirsty in Wroclaw. We saw Polish, Georgian, Ukrainian, Cuban, Japanese and Chech restaurants and bars and also quite a few artisan coffee spots. There also seems to be a reemergence of the milk bars which were popular in Poland in the 80s. These bars offer cheap meals, in a style of “like your mum used to cook” and which seem to attract lots of tourists and students. We tried the “bar mleczny” at Hala Targowa where for £4-5 you can get a tasty pork schnitzel the size of a plate, dill potatoes, mix salad and kompot – a typically Polish fruit based drink. 

This nostalgia continues in the architectural styles that can be found around Wroclaw. One of such sites is the Wroclaw Manhattan or the “toilet seat” apartment blocks near the Grunwaldzki Bridge. The apartments were built in the 1970s and are listed as a historic monument. The complex consists of 6 residential buildings and they represent the socialist modernism architecture. The distinctive undulating balconies resemble a toilet seat hence the popular name for this estate.

Another throwback to the past in the Neon Side Gallery. It is tucked away in a hidden courtyard and is a splendid collection of 1970s/80s neon signs salvaged by the designers. It has various logos and company names on the walls of some grey buildings which at night turn this little nook into a colourful and glowing piece of art.

One to visit

Wroclaw is an ideal city for a short city break. It has history, stunning architecture, pesky dwarves popping up at every corner, delicious food and all these only a short flight away from the UK. If you need recommendations what other cities to visit in Poland, please see my guides to Krakow and Gdansk.